User Name Remember Me? Long clutch pedal travel? Is it just me or is the travel on the clutch pedal really long? I'm six ft tall and in order to be able to depress the clutch all the way, I have to scoot the seat up quite a bit.
But then, my right foot and leg are scrunched up. Unless there is an adjustment, I'm gonna look into a spacer for the pedal to make it more balanced for my needs.
I'm 6'1" and I find it ok. Maybe your left leg is shorter than your right. Also 6ft tall and sit with the seat set pretty far back. Don't have an issue either. My wife is shorter than I am, she does move the seat up to reach all the pedals comfortably but is also no where near being scrunched. Maybe you have seat set too high or too low? Seat back back too far? I notice that if my seat back is back too far that it makes engaging the clutch feel different.
Both legs are the same length, but I could get one of those shoes for my left foot with a thicker sole to fix my problem! I've tried close up, all the way back, how to read ec meter up, down and everything in-between. Doesn't seem to matter, my clutch has a LONG travel.
Wife is shorter and she's noticed it too. We both grew up driving a clutch, so I doubt it's from lack of experience. I wonder if the clutches just have a longer travel in the TDI's? I have 2 manual VWs and the clutch travel is different in each. It may just be something you have to get used to though?
I would say go to a dealer and hop in another Jetta TDI sedan and compare clutch travel to yours if you were so inclined. I thought it felt the same as a New Beetle I used to drive, and my dad thought it was similar to his '79 Rabbit diesel. I don't have enough knowledge to know - but - mwayner69 - does one car have a hydraulic setup and the other a cable setup?
I wonder if that could be a difference. Or does VW only use hydraulic setups? I also doubt it is from lack of experience - and I saudi arabia evisa give you that to press the clutch to the floor feels like inches? I don't know the precise measurement. Same question goes for Fatboy8 - were your previous cars hydraulic, cable or linkage type?
I believe both of mine are hydraulic, but will have to check the Beetle to verify. I've only had it a year and haven't driven it a whole lot. I have a feeling the New Beetle is a hydraulic clutch. And yes, that made complete sense.The Jalopy Journal.
RCM59Jul 4, A master with a bigger bore would do it, but the effort would probably be higher. Or a slave with a smaller cylinder. With the linkage adjusted for about. V8 BobJul 4, Atwater Mike likes this. Are you saying that you have a problem with disengaging the clutch at full pedal and master cylinder travel?
What type of pressure plate are you using? I learned because of a 1 ton Chevy application, that with a hydraulic release setup, you have to stay with a diaphragm type clutchtypically. This was a wrecker that was being repaired.
I also learned with info from tech service folks at the clutch supplier our company used, that on a diaphragm type pressure plate setup and hydraulic release, that the release bearing should always be in some contact with the fingers of the pressure plate. Is the throwout bearing able to provide travel to release the disc? Back to pedal ratio or master cylinder bore.
Let me see if I can give you guys more info. From it's resting position up and back to the floor. It has to go into first to catch reverse.
It will not go directly.User Name Remember Me? Clutch travel Hi Everyone, I just picked up my new golf tdi, manual trans, in united gray, and couldn't be happier. This is a really great little car. I just have one question about the clutch travel.
The clutch pedal has a rather long travel compared to what I am used to driving Hondas and Toyotas OK I then went to the owners manual but it very clear that you should depress the clutch the entire distance so I am doing that right now. So here is my question. Do you need to depress the clutch the whole way for a safe gear change i. Thanks in advance everyone. The clutch is hydraulic and is not adjustable.
If you are sitting still and in gear, keep the clutch pedal on the floor. If you are shifting gears, use as much pedal as you feel comfortable with. If you grind a gear, you know you made a boo-boo Sit in car on level ground with engine idling, brake off. Push clutch and put in first. Gradually lift clutch until you detect the car starting to creep forward. That clutch pedal position is the engagement point. As long as you shift with the pedal maybe an inch or so below that, there will be no harm.
All clutches act a little different. You'll get used to this one. I've been driving my tdi for ten years, and i have no idea whether I push the clutch fully or not.I do not expect it to brake like new cars, for starters only the fronts are discs. I checked the vacuum, pumped the brake, then pushed the clutch and brake and started the car, it sunk about half way down but no warning lights come up in the console. It seems to me like there could be air in the system and simply pulling it out would fix the issue, but I am not sure.
Braking performance is good, it just takes that extra travelling for the pedal to brake. Any ideas :? Rear drum 'automatic' adjusters are rarely automatic after a few years, it would be worth checking them. How is your handbrake? Many clicks to get it to hold on a hill? Brake fluid should be changed regularly, every 2 years is recommended but not many people do it.
It might be worth changing the fluid if the pads and shoes are fine and there are no leaks anywhere. I find if I do a lot of driving without any heavy braking the pedal gains a bit of freeplay and the handbrake gets higher, so far I have managed to cure it by braking hard from speed in an empty and safe location. I'm fairly sure that's forcing the brake shoe adjusters to work properly. I agree with TomsFocus on automatic adjusters. On my Fiesta which I had for 9 years but sold last yr I had to take the drums off to manually adjust the rear brake adjusters as they did not automatically adjust up and this was most noticable on the handbrake travel.
Often people then adjust the handbrake cable but that is just masking the real problem of the adjusters in the drums being stuck. On cars I have had since I started driving 35 years ago I have found that the automatic adjusters often need manual adjustment. I adjusted the rear drums on my fiesta and noticed the handbrake cable would now work when put in the first position. I would also say that braking improved slightly as the shoes would operate the rear drums with less press of the brake pedal.
Before I had to press the brake pedal a bit more down for both the front and rear brakes to work. Have you tried changing the brake fluid if its never been changed then air and water can get into the fluid.
Brake and Clutch Pedal Adjustment
Air and water can compress unlike the brake fluid itself that does not this will give you the symptoms you have. After I will also change the brake fluid, the car is second hand and we got it like that.
At this point, a lot of people do up the handbrake cable adjuster which reduces hand brake travel but does not reduce brake pedal travel. Same here, I put it up to one click on a hill and it managed to hold on. Before the touching the rear drums I had to pull it so it clicks four times. You need to adjust the brake shoes then from there you will notice the handbrake doesn't have to be pulled up that much.
I had an advisory on the MOT mentioning that there's a bit of travel on the handbrake plus it failed because the brake pedal would fully depress all the way. The cause of the brake pedal was because one of the brake lines burst in the MOT causing brake fluid to leak. What your aiming is slightly better braking at little pressure on the brake pedal and the handbrake can hold the car at one or two clicks.As in most manual cars, I find that the clutch pedal travel is mostly useless.
That is, once the clutch is fully engaged, the pedal still has a goodly way to go before it hits the stop. On pedal depression the inverse is true. As modern hydraulic clutches are self-adjusting, this once-necessary extra distance is pointless. I would rather clutch with my ankle than my whole leg.
If I could cut the pedal travel in half or moreI would like that very much. Hondas usually have easy to push clutches and that long travel is needed for that. It would take re-engineering the pedal and pivot point. Or installing a clutch master cylinder with a larger bore diameter so it pumped more fluid…Not a simple task…. The pedal stroke is considerably greater than the distance needed to control the clutch but the excess travel gives a great deal of allowance for wear to avoid constant adjustment.
Neutrino July 4,pm 1. I have a Civic LX; I would like the clutch pedal travel distance to be far less than it is. Is this possible? How would I do such a thing? Thanks in advance. Caddyman July 6,am 4.You must post a clear and direct question in the title. The title may contain two, short, necessary context sentences.
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I learned to drive on my car, which has a clutch pedal with zero difference in feel over approximately inches of travel. This has remained after changing the clutch once. He says this is how a clutch pedal should be. There are several different materials used in clutch discs, and they aren't going to feel the same from one material to another. And each vehicle has a different pedal system so for instance, a clutch on a Dodge Neon will be totally different than on a Ford F Note: My sister's car had an "easy-peasy" forgiving clutch.
Super soft and nice. My truck's clutch was a fussy bitch. You had to be dead on or you were going to stall. You're also going to have to factor in the master and slave cylinder and fluid from vehicle to vehicle.
I go from my diamond stage 2 clutch middle of the road performance clutch to my friends McCloud clutch holds serious power well north of the hp mine will and his drives way smoother. Every car is different, but 3 to 4 inches seems like a lot.
This doesn't mean there is a problem with yours, though.
Even two identical cars will have a difference in where the clutch engages. You can adjust it, but I'd go out on a limb and say, if it has always been that way Clutch travel is usually determined by the clutch master cylinder.
Changing the clutch disc won't change the travel on the clutch pedal, but changing the master cylinder will. So long as the clutch is working, and no fluid is working then the system is fine. On most modern clutches the travel isn't adjustable. Once it has hydraulic pressure it is what it is. So as long as you aren't leaking brake fluid it's good to go. Every manual transmission vehicle I have driven has had a different clutch feel. Usually the sportier the car the stiffer and more aggressive the clutch feels.
With older cars and more family oriented the clutch feel is usually much softer and smoother. With a soft clutch as long as the transmission engages smoothly and fully it is operating normally.
The linkage should be checked and, if necessary, adjusted about every 6, miles or 10,km, or as specified in the maker's service schedule. Wear on the friction plate and on the linkage will eventually alter the maker's setting. On most cars, mechanical clutch-linkage clearance is measured and adjusted underneath the car. On some the makers advise checking free play a specific measurement between pedal positions - at the pedal, although adjustment may be made underneath.
On some cars - many Hondas and Toyotas, for example - checking and adjustment can be done at the bulkhead under the bonnet.
Wherever adjustment is made, the same principles apply to all cable linkages. They are adjusted by either increasing or decreasing the lengths of the inner and outer cables in relation to each other. If there is not enough clearance in the linkage, the inner cable has to be made longer. If there is too much, it has to be made shorter.
Short Clutch Pedal Travel Distance
Check your car handbook or service manual to find the exact amount of clearance required and how it should be measured. In an emergency, as long as you ensure that there is play in the linkage, the clutch should perform well enough. Check it and adjust to the correct clearance as soon as possible. On a few old cars, such as the Vauxhall Cavalier, there is a constant-contact release bearing - this is adjusted to give no free play at all in the linkage.
Although some hydraulic clutches can be adjusted, many are self-adjusting. Check in your car handbook or service manual. If slip occurs on a self-adjusting clutch, the clutch has to be overhauled. If drag occurs, the hydraulics may be at fault See Checking and removing a clutch master cylinder. Otherwise, renew the clutch. The typical conventional clutch linkage is an inner cable sliding in an outer sheath.
The top end of the cable is attached to the clutch pedal and the bottom end to the clutch operating lever. The adjustment to the spring-loaded travel of the lever is normally made by means of a locknut, either at the point where the cable is attached to it - as shown here - or at the other end of the cable where it is attached to the engine-bay bulkhead. Adjustment is made for clearance free play - the distance the cable travels before moving the lever.
The cable clearance on a mechanical clutch may be checked and adjusted underneath the car in a variety of ways, depending on the make.
Three common methods are shown here: first, measuring the change in cable length when the clutch lever is operated; second, measuring between the adjuster nut and lever; third, measuring between the adjuster nut and cable stop. On some cars, it may be possible to use either of the methods shown for checking and adjusting at the lever.